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Old 05-23-2013, 11:30 AM
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Default 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

OK. Figure it's about time I posted these pics here. I'm going to try something different and not use a lot of text (I admit to a tendency to verbosity in my threads) but I think the pics are fairly self explanatory.
If anyone has any questions just ask... I don't bite... much...

Bussard spinner:



Bussard motor mounting modifications:













Video:


More to come!
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File Type: jpg IMG_4240.JPG (139.6 KB, 69 views)
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:36 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Interesting mods. Two questions:

It's a little unclear where the bearings are used.

Is the tube that connects the motor to the bussard glued, or just press fit?
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:37 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Filling in gridlines...





Looks neat and clean right? Well, it was too neat, after primimg I could stll see the gridlines so I puttied again, sanded AGAIN and reprimed....






Look Ma! No gridlines!


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Old 05-23-2013, 11:46 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Quote:
Originally Posted by zysurge View Post
Interesting mods. Two questions:

It's a little unclear where the bearings are used.

Is the tube that connects the motor to the bussard glued, or just press fit?
I'm trying to quiet the motor noise if that wasn't palin from the video.

Anyway, the bearings are inside at either end of the tunnel where the motor is supposed to slide into in the bussard housing at the front of the nacelle.
They fit like a glove without having to do anything to the kit part. A rectangular piece of styrene sheet is glued into the recess at the front of the tunnel to prevent the front bearing from sliding forward out of the tunnel. A second section of styrene tubing is inserted into the tunnel between the bearings to keep them from sliding together. A second piece of styrene tubing larger than the opening and with a hole big enough to allow passage of the axle shaft is glued over the back of the tunnel to keep the rear bearing from falling out. The threaded brass coupler shaft is first inserted into a piece of styrene tubing which is sanded to a slightly smaller diameter to slide into the bearings. The threaded part of the brass coupler threads into the bussard spinner. The brass coupler has a hole in the larger end into which I hammered a piece of square brass tubing for a tight press fit. There is a second smaller diameter piece of Evergreen plastic tubing out the backside of the axle assembly that is hammered onto the piece of square brass tubing which acts as a coupler. Then the silicon tubing slides onto the tubing at the back end of the axle assembly to make the connection to the motor shaft which has a piece of Evergreen tubing force fit onto it. The silcon tubing is actually fuel line for RC airplanes I got at the hobby store. It's press fit not glued.

These pics may explain better...












Spinner shaft assembled...
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:43 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

The Bridge...

I didn't mention this but in addition to the Enterporise kit itself I also purchased the accessory lighting kit from Polar Lights and the ParaGrafix photo-etch set. The lighting kit included a clear bridge for lighting. ParaGrafix included PE frames for the overhead console displays and main viewscreen along with PE railings. ParaGrafix also included decals. There were decals for graphical charts, planets, and such for the overhead displays and for the main viewscreen you had a choice of Balok, a Klingon battlecruiser, or a Romulan Bird-of-Prey. I chose to go with Balok with his bulbous head and malevolent look. The PE set also included figures in 1/350 and 1/400 scale and shadow casters for placing behind the ships windows to give the impression of crewmen on board.

The bridge required quite a bit of work but I was pleased with how it turned out. It's lit by two LEDs on each side opposite each other that shine thru the clear plastic to light the displays. A third LED sits behind the main viewer. I added figures for Captain Kirk, Yoeman Rand, Spock, Uhura, Sulu, McCoy, Scotty, a navigator, and a redshirt.

Here's the center section which was cut out for easier painting:



The assembled bridge:



SUlu, Kirk, the navigator, and Scotty were to be seated so I removed them from the PE fret and bent their arms and legs into a seated pose.
I used foam tape to hold them while I painted them:



Some of the figures I left on the fret to paint.
Left to right here are a redshirt, Spock, McCoy, and Rand:



The figures were glued onto the bridge using Elmer's clear glue. I liked it better than CA because it's easier to remove the figures if I want to reposition them. Also less messy:






I wanted to see if I could approximate the ceiling soffit which illuminated the peirmeter of the bridge so I cut out a ring from clear styrene sheet and sanded it to help with light diffusion. The inner diameter was made to be about 1/16" less than the upper hull dome opening:



A ring was made from Evergreen strip and glued to the inner edge. The width of the ring matched the distance from the bottom of the lighting soffit and the underside of the dome openng above:



Reflective tape was wrapped around the edge of the ring to reflect light back inside the soffit and block light from showing thru the ring:



For the upper dome lighting I soldered two 30 AWG kynar wires to a warm white surface mount LED I got from Lighthouse LEDs. This was my first time soldering to such tiny LEDs; guess my experience working with the small crew figures was good practice:



The surface mount LED was epoxied to a styrene disc which was then glued into the underside of the translucent white upper dome. Here it is lit up:



I used the "N" wiring harness for which there are two sockets on the circuit board. These are optional ports intended for those who want to light the impulse engines but I won't be lighting those on my build so I used one socket for the dome light instead.
The upper dome in place on top of B-C deck and lit up:



The ceiling soffit ring is glued into the hull with CA:



The bridge is glued to the soffit ring with CA :



The "O" lighting harness is installed and tested:



"Captain. You may want to look at this. It appears to be a miniature of our bridge."











After these pics were taken I went a step further and inserted small squares of semi-opaque milk jug plastic between the three LEDs and the bridge displays and main viewscreen to help diffuse the light more. Then this morning I mixed up some Envirotex resin and poured it around the bridge inside A deck up to the level of the LEDs. The clear resin helped to alleviate hot spots and more evenly distribute light around the bridge displays. It was a small but noticeable improvement.

Sometime afterward I took a different approaches to lighting the bridge dome using leftover brass fret strips to make contacts for "A" deck and the dome. I was concerned that with repeated flexing the 30 AWG wires would break.

Here's a pic of the new dome wiring with the final solution with brass contacts:



I went with clear styrene so I could see how the contacts were lining up with the contacts in the top of "A" deck. I'll be adding some more detail to the underside of the dome so the wiring will be hiddden from sight.

"A" deck with brass contact strips soldered to the original wire leads:



Soldering in place was tricky and required a quick hand with the soldering iron so as not to melt the hull plastic; also, CA tends to let go when heated.
You also have to be careful and not apply too much solder or risk it dropping off into the bridge below. I had that happen dutring the first attemps at using solder blobs on tin strips and almost took out Spock! Yikes! Holy Harry Mudd's hemorrhoids I thought- well, not really, but you get the idea.
Fortunately I had moved Spock from his original position at his console bending over his viewer and moved him over beside Captain Kirk standing with his arms behind his back in that classic Spock pose. I wanted him to be more visible too and over against the black console he all but disappeared.
Anyway, continuing the horror story with the solder, the drop of molten liquid metal landed on the other side of the railing behind Spock and missed the console and Spock's chair entirely.
I think I did hear Uhura scream though as it landed fairly close to her.
The solder warped the railing slightly but, luckily, I was able to fix it by heating a spoon shaped metal paint stir stick and pressing it against the railing until it returned to it's original curvature.
A little paint touch up and it looks fine now.
Learning from my mistakes, when I went to install the final brass contacts, I took the precaution of placing a small piece of aluminum foil over the bridge below the opening to catch any solder droplets. Sure enough I had a nice big blob of solder drip off the iron and land smack dab where Kirk's chair would have been if not for the foil. I tell you I feel like Houdini with some of the narrow escapes I've had with this bridge!

Anyway, enough of my travails, here is the bridge dome in place and lit up:



Thanks for reading!
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Last edited by Trekriffic; 05-29-2013 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:43 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Today's work...

Got started on the base. I'm using the base from the Refit kit; the Refit will get the round base from this kit. I cut out rectangular openings for the two lighted rocker switches on top for my two circuits; drilled out an opening on the side for the "M" sized DC panel jack the power supply plugs into; and carved an opening in the channel down the middle for the support tube to slide into. Then I gave it multiple coats of Dupli-Color primer:



I plan to spray it with Krylon Black and then give it a coat of Krylon Steel. I even have decals for the lighted panels that were included on the Refit's decal sheet. Too cool! I didn't even know the Refit base had decals until I tuned in to Steve Neill's blog and saw where he was using the same base and his customer asked him to apply them. They will look great I think; especially if I can mount a few LEDs on top and shine them up at the underside of the Enterprise.
Moving along, I also mixed up a batch of paint for the main hull color. I used two bottles of MM Imperial Japanese Navy Sky Grey, most of a bottle of thinned ACE Shady Cove (left over from my 1/1000 build); most of a bottle of MM Flat White; and a dash of MM SAC Bomber Green to taste. It's pretty close to what I want, I might want to add a little more white.
Here are a few pics of the mix against a color sample from ACE...



and next to the unpainted kit plastic...



It's veeeeery close to the shade I'm looking for think.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:21 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Well as some of you may have noticed PhotoBucket put a clamp on posting any more of my photos to forums without upgrading to their Plus package which costs 30 bucks for 20 Gigs of bandwidth. It appears I have reached their 10 gig limit for forum views. Well guess what? I can switch to Flickr! and get one TERRABYTE of bandwidth for free! So take that PissBucket!

Anyway... moving on...

Anyone wanting to view the previously posted pics in this thread can still find the 1/350 TOS Enterprise album on PhotoBucket doing a search under "trekriffic".
For now, all future posts will feature pics from my Flick! album.

Here's this weekend's update...

I cut about an 8 inch length of Plastruct tubing and glued it into a hole drilled into the top of the base with styrene cement. The aluminum tubing with power plug will slide inside this sleeve allowing for removal from the base:


IMG_4360 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The tubing was reinforced underneath with AVES and Tamiya epoxy putty:


IMG_4376 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The fantail windows had to be cut from their backing and glued in flush with the interior surface of the hull with CA; otherwise, the fit was too tight with the shuttle bay in place to allow the hull to close:


IMG_4363 by trekriffic, on Flickr
The windows viewed from outside:


IMG_4364 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Work was done on the connecting dorsal...
I wanted a mix of dark and translucent white windows so I had to cut up the kit parts to mix and match. The windows were then glued in using Devcon 5-minute epoxy which doesn't mar the inside layers of light blocking/reflective paint. It does tend to get on your fingers though which is a real PITA.
For the orange window on each side I overcoated it with Tamiya transparent orange acrylic on the backside. For the two windows on each side with screens behind them I carved away the backing plastic with a dremel router bit and thinned the window pane to about 1/32" thickness in order for the photo-etch screen to be barely visible when backlit:


IMG_4365 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Once the PE screens were cut to the size of the window frames I laid them into the recesses and filled from behind with CA:


IMG_4366 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I then laid down adhesive-backed foil strips to frame the opening and lessen the chance of light bleed:


IMG_4372 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The dorsal halves with windows in place. I made the starboard side match the studio model as far as dark and light window placement; the port side was done with a different pattern since since I do not think it logical to assume that window symmetry would be a requirement on board the Enterprise:


IMG_4361 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I pulled the G and C harnesses from the light kit and followed the instructions to connect the light strip sections using the edge connectors. No matter what I did I just couldn't get them to light using the connectors so I desoldered the wire leads from the connectors and soldered them directly to the strips:


IMG_4373 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Once that was done I peeled the backing tape off the strips and stuck them to the locatios indicated on the top and bottom inside surfaces of the dorsals facing in opposite directions. The tape didn't appear all that strong to me so I first laid a rectangle of double-sided adhesive foam tape down on the hull mounting points before sticking the LED strips to the foam tape. Then I squeezed a nice glob of hot glue on the wires at each end of the strip to provide strain relief for the solder joints and added insurance in case the tape ever gave way.
Here's a light test of the finished dorsal with the wire harnesses for the dorsal and saucer power hanging out:


IMG_4375 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Moving back to the secondary hull, I soldered the wires to the four DC power panel jack contacts and sealed them shrink tubing. Then I packed the jack with Tamiya putty all around makig sure not to get any where the other hull half needed to mate up with it:


IMG_4359 by trekriffic, on Flickr

For the nacelle struts I glued in the black window insert to the outboard halves before laying in two sets of wires and gluing the two halves together for each strut using styrene cement:


IMG_4377 by trekriffic, on Flickr

One thing I notiiced about the strut halves concerned some slight warpage of the parts when I first removed them from the sprue. I had planned to clamp them tight between two lenghts of 2x4 when gluing them together so when the glue dried they'd be flat but I didn't need to do that after all. I surmise that having lain on my worktable in the garage for some weeks where the sun could warm them thru the garage door windows they gradually flattened out on their own. Nice!

The last thing I did Sunday evening was some work on the bussard lighting parts...
I modified the plastic bussard bulbs to allow insertion of clear and colored LEDs inside the bulbs.
This should hopefully translate to a brighter lightshow once the orange coated inner spinner with mirror button and white frosted outer domes are in place. First I snipped off the shaft at the base of each bulb designed to fit into the bulb tower bulkhead. Then I drilled a small hole using a bit in my pinvise before using a round router bit on my battery operated "dremel" to finish the job. Some of the bulbs had air bubbles inside which greatly speeded up the process:


IMG_4370 by trekriffic, on Flickr

After doing about 5 or 6 of these I was able to get an almost perfect fit each time with the Lighthouse LEDs. I'll use a mix of diffuse amber/orange, white, and maybe yellow/gold wide angle and ultrabright LEDs for the 5 always on lights in each bussard and a mix of blue, pink, green, and red lights for the flashers:


IMG_4371 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I hollowed out 22 bulbs in all giving me a few extra in each color as I'm still deciding what mix of colors I want to go with for the flashers. This took about 2 hours to finish as I had to take a break now and then due to finger cramps from holding the bulbs as I worked.
Here's one of the amber/orange LEDs inserted into an amber bulb and powered up:


IMG_4367 by trekriffic, on Flickr

That's it for this update.
Thanks for sticking with me on this build!
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:43 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Looks great, from what I can see of the pics - most of them aren't showing up. It's showing a PhotoBucket "frame image".

Anyhoo, looks like you've got a solid build going. Love that bridge detail!
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:54 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Yesterday I started working with the Miniatronics strobe flasher board and while gluing the incandescent bulbs into the clear kit strobe inserts one of the bulbs burned out. Needless to say, I was a bit disappointed with the fragility of the bulbs and after trying to see if I had any more 1.5 V grain-of-rice bulbs in my stash (I didn't) I changed course and decided to go in a different direction. Using the lighting kit port P's on the Polar Lights board wasn't really an option since one of the ports was bad and just didn't work. I probably could have tried wiring 2 LEDs into one "P" port but, even had that worked, it wouldn't have changed the other thing I didn't like which was the flash rate; It was too slow for what I wanted for my strobes so...
I had purchased a flasher controller online from Modeler's Brand Hobby Supplies for 10 bucks:

http://modelersbrand.com/html/item_p..._flashers.html

Modelman Tom runs the site and he had told me you could run up to something like 20 LEDs wired in parallel off his controller in a variety of modes, flash rates, and brightnesses. So for 10 bucks I thought it sounded like a good deal and went ahead and ordered one to try out.
I hooked it up to an open 12V port on the secondary hull lighting kit PC board and wired it to two LEDs with 510 ohm resistors.
Then I made a video...



It worked great and I am so thankful to Modelman Tom for offering this excellent flasher controller at a very affordable price! I'm just sorry I flubbed his online store's name in my video! It's modelersbrand.com damn it!
Anyway, take it easy everyone and I hope you like the vid.
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Old 06-06-2013, 03:07 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

It doesnt say on the website but will tom ship these to the uk ?
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:27 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo-Uk View Post
It doesnt say on the website but will tom ship these to the uk ?
Hi Neo.

You can email Tom and ask him yourself:

sales@modelersbrand.com
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:10 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

I'm going to be ordering one of those flashers. I was just getting ready to post a question about available flashers down the Model Talk section - but you answered it for me!
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:24 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cat View Post
I'm going to be ordering one of those flashers. I was just getting ready to post a question about available flashers down the Model Talk section - but you answered it for me!
You're welcome dude! Ya can't go wrong for 10 bucks I figure; especially for a controller as versatile as this one.
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:47 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

I like the part where it can be plugged into the R2 lighting kit too. That 350th Miranda is going to need strobes, and this is PERFECT.

I'm also paying a lot of attention to how you're mounting the ship on its stand.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:33 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Latest progress...

I am soldering the wire leads to the LED strip lights and sticking them down to foam tape before squirting a glob of hot glue for strain relief at each end:

IMG_4387 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Here's the lower saucer with strips installed. The foil tape covers the smoked plastic unlit windows for added lightblocking:

IMG_4386 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Last night I soldered 30 AWG Kynar wire to two tiny SMD LEDs and taped them into the trench over the center of the shuttle bay using transparent tape:

IMG_4393 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Then I did a light test with just the two SMD LEDs on. I still need to add the 4 LEDs that mount on the perimeter of the back wall to light the sides of the bay and the side gallery windows:

IMG_4390 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The rearmost LED is almost directly beneath the three small spine lights so I'm pretty sure I'll get them to glow too.

IMG_4391 by trekriffic, on Flickr


IMG_4389 by trekriffic, on Flickr

For the gallery windows on the back wall I glued some of the Shadow Casters from the ParaGrafix PE set:

IMG_4392 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I won't be using the two sternmost LED strip lights as most of the windows in that area are not lit. Instead I'll place one 5MM superbright LED in that area
facing the back wall of the bay. It should provide some additional illumination to the bay and really make the figures in the backwall gallery pop!

Last thing for this report...

I wanted the option of showing the bay doors open or closed so I cut out the middle section of bay doors from the "closed" bay door part to use with the "open" door part. The closed door part was thicker than the open door part so I thinned it with my dremel, a seam scraper, and sandpaper before light blocking with black enamel and primer on the inside facing surface. The outside of both parts was painted with my custom hull color mix:

IMG_4396 by trekriffic, on Flickr

That's it for now.

Have a good one!
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Last edited by Trekriffic; 06-07-2013 at 11:39 AM.
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