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  #16  
Old 06-10-2013, 01:55 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Got some more work done at lunch last Friday...

I followed RossW's advice and brushed on liquid insulation to the LED strip solder joints:


IMG_4410 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Then I started working on dry fitting the shuttle bay into the hull. First thing was to carve a trench into the hull directly over the ceiling trench of the bay. I made it deep enough for the spine light insert to sit flush with the inside surface. This would also avoid impinging on the delicate wiring of the SMD LEDs in the trench:


IMG_4400 by trekriffic, on Flickr

After gluing the 4 LED harness to the back wall of the bay I realized that, as is, there was no way on earth to close the hull halves due to the bulbs sticking out too far so I carved trenches about 1/16" deep into the hull at the back of the bay:


IMG_4401 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Then I did another dry fit with much better results:


IMG_4402 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I was able to get the hull almost completely closed. In fact, even brute force squeezing didn't get it much tighter. Once I apply glue and clamp it tight to dry there should be no gaps to speak of; and if there are, I can easily putty them:


IMG_4403 by trekriffic, on Flickr


IMG_4404 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Light test with just the 4 back/side wall bulbs lit. I'll need to address the light leakage around the edge of the bay doorframe. I might try sticking some rolled AVES onto the hull along the frame line before inserting the bay so when I glue and clamp it will be squeezed in good and tight between the hull and the frame. Then I can trim away the excess before lightblocking the AVES with black enamel.Then I'll give the frame and doors a shot of the hull color. That should do the trick I think:


IMG_4406 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The outside windows light up pretty well. As you can see, I'll have to light block where I dug the trenches:


IMG_4407 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I'm really looking forward to getting the hull closed up with the overhead SMD lights on and the superbright LED shining thru the rear gallery windows in addition to the back/sidewall LEDs. I think the bay will be plenty well lit after all the LEDs are operating.
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Last edited by Trekriffic; 06-10-2013 at 01:57 PM.
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  #17  
Old 06-10-2013, 04:21 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

As I said over at HT, Fantastic work! It's like watching art taking shape.
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  #18  
Old 06-12-2013, 09:19 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Update...
Earlier I related my work to replace the single flashing LED on each side of the saucer with two parallel wired "lighthouse" style LEDs I got from modelersbrand.com. That done it was time to prepare the plastic colored red and green (upper saucer) and clear (bottom saucer) domes for insertion of the LED's. To do this I first had to shorten the neck on the LED for the lower saucer domes as they insert into the clear part from inside the saucer rather than feeding thru the hull first. This picture compares the upper saucer LED on the left with the shortened LED for the lower saucer light to the right:

IMG_4414 by trekriffic, on Flickr
After drilling holes into the plastic kit domes I glued the upper saucer LEDs up and thru the holes in the hull leaving the colored domes off until after I finish painting; it will be much easier to mask cylinders as opposed to domes. Then I glued the lower domes onto the LED and left them free until it's time to glue the saucer halves together. I will need to mask the domes on the bottom though but that's what MicroMask liquid mask is for.
Moving on, I finished soldering the connections between the the secondary hull halves. I even added a white LED mounted between the pylon buttresses to provide extra light into the rear of the shuttle bay. I also afixed the flasher controller from modelersbrand.com (which will power the strobes) to the lower port side of the secondary hull using foam tape:

IMG_4419 by trekriffic, on Flickr
Even using heavy duty clamps after gluing with Testors cement and CA , the halves still had about a 1/32" wide gap to fill along the spine. I filled it with Tamiya epoxy putty:

IMG_4423 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I wanted to see how the shuttle bay looked installed with the lights on. The pic below was taken with the rear/side wall and upper ceiling lights on but not with the rear facing LED that sits between the pylons aimed at the rear gallery windows on:

IMG_4430 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I gotta admit, I''m pretty happy with the bay lighting! It will be even a little bit brighter once I have the rear window facing LED lit up. It's tied into the "E" LED strip light string with a 510 ohm resistor on the negative leg to handle 12 volts.
One thing I wanted to do was light up the 3 lights over the bay on the spine aft of the nacelle pylons. I think I accomplished that pretty well:

IMG_4429 by trekriffic, on Flickr
Today I did some sanding of the Tamiya putty then I gave the seams a treatment of the PPP:

IMG_4431 by trekriffic, on Flickr

IMG_4432 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I'll wait until later to go back and sand the PPP. Then I'll brush some Mr Surfacer on the seams and we'll see where we're at. Once I've got the seams smoothed to my satisfaction I'll start masking the windows. I'm hoping to use Mr Surfacer for light blocking along the seams. She'll then get another coat of primer. I'd rather not have to resort to undercoating the primer with a layer of black paint if I can avoid it.
That's all for now folks! Thanks for reading!
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  #19  
Old 06-12-2013, 11:39 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Beautiful!!!!
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  #20  
Old 06-13-2013, 10:50 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

The latest...

After sealing up the hull I noticed that the LED I had installed to light the rear wall windows of the shuttle bay was cool white with a slight bluish tint. This didn't work well since the other windows in the bay were lit with warm white LEDs with a more yellowish tint. So yesterday I went about replacing the cool white LED with a warm one. Luckily I had a spare warm white LED from the "N" wiring harness since I am not lighting the impulse engines...

Here's the offending cool white LED and it's resistor after I pried it loose from inside the hull with the aid of my newly purchased foot long hemostat. No Novacane was used:

$29
IMG_4434 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I used the same hemostat to glue in the new warm white LED. It's visible near the top middle of this photo inside two sections of Evergreehn tubing. The LED and legs slid inside a short piece of 7/32" O.D. tubing which itself slid inside a short length of 9/32: O.D. tubing that was glued to, and between, the pylon buttresses:


IMG_4438 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The rear wall lit up with the new LED:


IMG_4441 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Worked on the dome over the bay. The clear insert that fits inside the dome had clear rods at staggered heights that were painted with clear red, yelow, and amber paint:


IMG_4436 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Here's the dome lit up:


IMG_4453 by trekriffic, on Flickr

More to come!
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Last edited by Trekriffic; 06-13-2013 at 10:54 AM.
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  #21  
Old 06-14-2013, 08:53 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

After posting the photo of my shuttle bay dome I went onto a site with photos taken during the 1991 restoration and found this shot of the disassembled dome:


Hangar dome by trekriffic, on Flickr

I noticed something right off and that was the insert was made of what appears to be translucent dark green plastic with three rods of red, amber, and yelow projecting up from it at different heights. Of particular interest to me was the dark green plastic. The Polar Lights kit makes no reference to painting the kit insert dark green on it's face yet I think it's critical to giving the lit dome the greenish tint we saw on the screen. Since I've already jammed the insert in so tight it cannot be pried loose from the dome, I've gone ahead and painted the underside dark green being careful not to paint over the other colors. Once it dries I'll do another light test and we'll see how it looks.
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  #22  
Old 06-17-2013, 08:32 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Weekend update...

Took the plunge and redid the LEDs on the bussard boards.

First thing was to clipm off the kit LEDs leaving as much of the legs attached to the board as possible so I had something to solder the new LED legs to:


IMG_4460 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Then I used my Helping Hands to hold the board in place while I positioned the new LEDs onto the old LED leg stubs using a second set of Helping Hands. Here's the first board after resoldering. Not that I had to run jumpers from a green flasher over to the blue flasher opposite it to get the blue flasher to fire. For some reason that port on the board went dark on me:


IMG_4481 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Things went smoother with the second board:


IMG_4488 by trekriffic, on Flickr

After installing the amber LEDs (which required 2V max) along with their 47 ohm resistors onto the always on posts and white , blue, pink, and green 3V LEDs onto the flasher posts I powered the board up and saw I had a problem... the always on LEDs lit up fine but the flashers did not. After a little trial and error I discovered that when I removed the amber LEDs the flashers started working. I had fallen victim to that rule about mixing LEDs with different forwarding voltages- current will always flow to the LED with the lower current draw and ignore the LED with higher current needs; in this case it was the amber LEDs that hogged the current. Once I swapped out the amber LEDs for 3V white ones and stuck with 3V on the flashers the problem went away and everything lit up:


IMG_4469 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The resoldered board with the plastic tower part was a little thicker than before so I had to grind down the tabs inside the bussard housing that butt up against the bottom of the PC board so the assembly would sit lower enoguh in the housing to allow the clear (now translucent ) outer dome to fit properly:


IMG_4534 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Here I installed the PC board and the light tower part into the bussard housing. I used reflective silver "stars" paper under the LEDS. The mirror button in the center is shown here but it was later removed (it didn't do anytihng to enhance light bounce as I had hoped) and I went with mirror shards instead like the original studio model:


IMG_4483 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Lights on:


IMG_4485 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The light effect with the spinner in place:


IMG_4472 by trekriffic, on Flickr

And with the outer dome:


IMG_4475 by trekriffic, on Flickr


IMG_4478 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The effect with the flashers going is pretty awesome IIDSSM.
I'll post a video once I've got the motor attached so you guys can see it all lit up with the blades spinning.
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  #23  
Old 06-17-2013, 11:51 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

I did an auto-adjust on the exposure to give you a better diea of how the domes atually look:


IMG_4478 by trekriffic, on Flickr
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  #24  
Old 06-17-2013, 02:36 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Excellent work as always!
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:54 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Update... the nacelles...
Spent yesterday and today fine tuning the bussards and nacelles. After gluing the bussard housings into one half of each nacelle I attached the motors with silicon tubing to the spinner axles, powered them up, and after a minute or two I noticed an annoying squeak coming from the bearings inside the bussard housing. Some adjustments to the spinners-usually involving pulling them a little more forward and lubricating the bearings with 3-in-1 household oil eliminated the squeaks. Had to be careful though and not pull the spinners too far forward or they'd rub up against the inside of the outer domes. Finally got them just right.
Here's the port nacelle motor and bussard:

IMG_4537 by trekriffic, on Flickr
Foam pipe insulation was stuffed with some of the leftover thin foam protective sheets from the model kit:

IMG_4536 by trekriffic, on Flickr
The foam tubes were cut into sections and laid along the length of the nacelle to eliminate the tendency of the hollow cylinder to resonate like a pipe organ pipe would. A flat was cut along the sides of the foam tubes to accomodate the inboard nacelle trench:

IMG_4538 by trekriffic, on Flickr
The nacelle halves were glued together with Testors cement and wrapped with rubber bands to dry:

IMG_4539 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I wanted the blades to be more visible underneath the translucent domes so I used adhesive backed foil strips to cover the PE blades I'd painted with Testors aluminum previously. I also used foil on the center hub:

IMG_4540 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I think it looks quite a bit like the 11 footers bussard domes now:

image3 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I made a short video showing one of the bussards spinning so you guys could hear it. It's not completely closed up yet, still have to glue in the trench screens and attach the end caps, intercoolers, and reactor loops so I'm thinking it may get a little quieter still:

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  #26  
Old 06-22-2013, 10:57 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Just fantastic work!!

Must really pick this kit up, I wonder how well the sales for it are?
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:17 AM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Thanks SJM!

Progress from this past week...
I took the impulse engines and glued in the clear part. Then I backed the clear ports with black tape before gluing the part to the saucer. I also gave it a shot of Dullcote for a matte look:

IMG_4543 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I worked qutie a bit on the shuttle bay. I glued the clear control room to the top of the open bay door part then glued the doors to the stern with CA. I placed a white decal behind the control room window so it will glow but won't cause lens flares when I take pics of the stern. I took the ParaGrafix PE after heating to soften it and bent it around a round xacto tool handle so it fit around the clear control room piece without springing back on me. Then I glued it to the clear part with CA:

IMG_4550 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I took a break from the shuttle bay and worked on the nacelles. After a couple of sessions of puttying, seam scraping, sanding, and priming all the seams disappeared. The parts weren't bad as far as seams go; I've seen a lot worse. Then I attached the flux constrictors, intercoolers, and the stern "vents" with Testors cement. After another session of puttying with PPP around the edges of the aforementioned parts to fill any gaps I applied 3 coats of Duplicolor primer:

IMG_4551 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I'll save the end caps and ships "balls" for the end after I paint them.
The clear fantail lights were painted red, green, and amber orange using Model Master enamels. I also painted the top edge with black enamel for light blocking. ParaGrafix provides a PE piece to wrap around the face which really blocks extraneous light leaks. It also gives you nice, sharp, frames around the lights. I primered it preparatory to gluing it to the fantail with CA:

IMG_4552 by trekriffic, on Flickr
Aligning the top edge of the PE part with the bay floor left a slight rim projecting over the lower rim of the fantail so I used PPP to blend the lower rim of the PE part in with the uncercut:

IMG_4560 by trekriffic, on Flickr
Window masks were cut from Tamiya tape. I used dividers to measure the length and width of the windows before translating the measurements to the tape:

IMG_4562 by trekriffic, on Flickr
For the round windows I used a nail set to punch out holes in the tape. Actually "punch" is the worng term. What I do is stick the tape down on a vinyl mat; then I press the tip of the nail set down into the tape and twist back and forth until the tape is cut alround. I have 3 sizes of nail sets and it took them plus a couple of sizes of Harbour Freight hole punches to do the masks for all the round windows and ports in the saucer halves and connecting dorsal.

The last thing I did involved the saucer halves...
Sunday they got their first airbrushing of the base hull color:

IMG_4567 by trekriffic, on Flickr

IMG_4568 by trekriffic, on Flickr
After allowing a few days to dry I used a plastic flexi ruler and a compass to draw the radial and circular gridlines on with a sharp 2H pencil. Having the gridlines will certainly help a lot with decal placement. I used the smoke colored saucer domes with holes drilled dead center to anchor the pin on the compass arm for making the circles:

IMG_4569 by trekriffic, on Flickr\

IMG_4573 by trekriffic, on Flickr
The lower saucer was given a second airbrushing of the hull color over the gridlines to make them more subtle:

IMG_4571 by trekriffic, on Flickr
To those who think only the upper saucer had gridlines originally I'm fairly certain there were faint gridlines on the lower saucer as well because I've seen evidence of them in blowups of black & white photos taken of the ship during production at a low angle to starboard. I'm sure most of you are familiar with these photos. They are hard to see but they are there if you look closely.
Anyway, the upper saucer will also get a second coat of hull color to mute the gridlines but first I need to spray on some rust for the rust ring!
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:43 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

I love the look of your grid lines, great idea to airbrush back over your work to make it more subtle. Realistically as everyone knows, they were so faint on the original model and wouldn't at all translate to a model of this size, buuuut they do add something to the build don't they Look forward to seeing more progress!
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:32 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

Thanks SJM!

Here's the saucer masked off with blue painter's tape:


IMG_4574 by trekriffic, on Flickr

And after airbrushing the rust "ring". Not a ring so much as an arc really:


IMG_4575 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Tape removed. The flash makes it look darker than it is:


IMG_4576 by trekriffic, on Flickr

I need to spray the nacelles and the secondary hull (need to mask the windows) with hull color too so I'll wait until I'm ready to spray them before I do the overpray on the saucer.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:54 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 TOS Production Enterprise

I took a little break from the ship to work on the base over the weekend.
One thing I'd been mulling over was coming up with some type of illumination for the underside of the ship; some kind of lights on the base.
To that end I looked at my tubing stock and got to work...
I cut some square styrene tubing into sections and made four brackets:

IMG_4588 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I drilled holes for insertion of an axle made from piano wire.
I also drilled out a hole to insert a hollow aluminum tube thru the base of the bracket to allow for wires to pass thru into the base:

IMG_4589 by trekriffic, on Flickr
Plastic tubing was inserted thru holes drilled into the corners of the base and glued in. The bracket slides in and can rotate 360 degrees:

IMG_4590 by trekriffic, on Flickr
Upper hinge ears were cut from .040 styrene sheet. Plastic mounting rings were cut:

IMG_4591 by trekriffic, on Flickr

IMG_4592 by trekriffic, on Flickr
The rings were glued into the upper bracket. The upper and lower bracket hinge will allow the spotlights to pivot up and down:

IMG_4593 by trekriffic, on Flickr
An aluminum tube was cut which fit the diameter of a 5mm Ultrabright white LED. The aluminum tube slides into another plastic tube which itself slides into the ring m ounted to the hinge bracket assembly:

IMG_4594 by trekriffic, on Flickr
I cut some cowlings from plastic tubing (the same diameter as the rings) at a 45 degree angle. All parts were primed with Tamiya lacquer primer then sprayed with Tamiya Bare Metal Silver:

IMG_4597 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The completed spotlight:

IMG_4607 by trekriffic, on Flickr\

IMG_4608 by trekriffic, on Flickr

IMG_4609 by trekriffic, on Flickr

IMG_4612 by trekriffic, on Flickr

IMG_4613 by trekriffic, on Flickr

IMG_4621 by trekriffic, on Flickr
Four UltraBright spotlights that can turn 360 degrees and pivot to nearly vertical should allow me quite a bit of lighting flexibility with the Enterprise.
The spotlights have their own rocker switch and will operate independently of the switches for the ship's lights and motors.
Hope you guys like my spots!
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