Thread: The Joker
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:16 AM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default The Joker

Greetings all,

I picked up this sweet little gem of a kit a while back.

After talking to a few people about this piece I decided to follow the advice of my friend Erin Lantz in that the skin should be done mottled and not just completely white. So I went with that idea and did some research to find some good up-to-date reference art for the Joker. I know lately he has been depicted sicklier looking and thusly scarier…

Here is the model in just white primer.



Here is a promo build of the bust to give you some idea of how it can look painted up.



One of the references I am using is art done by an artist named Mike Deodato.



I am also using pictures of the Side Show Special Edition Joker which I REALLY like as a sculpt.



So after cleaning up the few seam lines and filling just a tiny few pin holes, I put the base white primer coat and allowed it 24 hours to dry.

[img]
https://hvnraq.bn1.livefilestore.com/y2phxEdIR4QODhi1LDUpoG19or_AZ5scR9Z1WxS151u-dCzDJDFlhP63emvyi6Ph064VuC5xANwu83kigzoFZWgATAxGpj 0GDi0C13auI-GkTY/DSCF2190.JPG?psid=1[/img]

A common technique used to create mottled skin is to paint airbrush tiny figure 8 shaped as a base over which flesh tones are painted. In the case of a smaller piece like this, I chose to use a watercolor pencil to create the figure 8 shapes. So I covered the head and neck with green figure 8s.



Transparent Flesh tone was added over the first set of figure 8s. For all Flesh tone colors and whites I am using Andrea Colors Flesh Tone kit and their White painting kit. Both of these kits have 6 bottles that cover a complete range of the color from Highlight to shadow.



Side view of the same…



Next layer of mottled skin was drawn in purple watercolor pencil and then I used a fine brush to soften that effect.



Transparent Flesh Tone layer two was applied.



Next up I started adding some translucent shading in flesh tone.



Following the shading I then started with a base transparent white.





Next up was to hit some area with the highlight white.



I re-introduce flesh tone to the areas around the eyes and some of the deep creases in the forehead.



I then added a darker tone to get closer to the reference. One hint about the cleaning up the overspray, is that I used a 1/16th inch flat brush dampened with the brush cleaning wash which is 50/50 Windex and water. You can go in and delicately scrub away and blend the tiny overspray areas.



More White and base wash for the mouth and eyes.



When I do eyes and teeth I very rarely ever use pure white. So I painted the lightest flesh tone and added that color for the teeth and eye base. For the eyes I left a dark line around the outside.




Here is a US Quarter coin for a size reference.




Eyebrow base enamel applied in a translucent layer, which allows some of the detail in the sculpting of the texture to show…



Humbrol Green # 75 thinned to translucence and added with a 1/8” Loew-Cornell Wedge brush. I like using the wedge brush because it allows a lot of paint to be held in the brush but also allows for rough detailing without having to use two brushes. (I got mine at Hobby Lobby here in the US). Since the base color is straight out of the Humbrol tin I can go back later and readdress areas with a detailing brush.



The base layer for the hair is complete and drying.



Next up is something that old school figure painters may have issues with…Archer’s Transfers makes several sets of eye decals. I use them as a means of locating the eyes on the figure and it allows me to make sure that the eyes are placed correctly and that they are not walleyed or cross-eyed. So I used a pair to place the eyes and then I clear coated them with Future Floor Wax. Once that is set I will begin to paint over the decal with opaque colors. If eyes are something that you don’t like to paint then these decals make a great alternative. IMHO using these decals is no different than using decals on a plane or tank.



First a dark circle is painted in green acrylic, and then a medium green circle is added inside that original dot, leaving a thin dark green edge.




The pupil placed in an 80% black. I don’t use full black as it tends to “pop” too much and make it look out of scale. Just as an FYI I use my double magnification Opti-visor since this is 1.25mm in diameter…



A very tiny base white dot is added to the upper left hand side of the Iris to denote a light reflection. I also painted the base deep red for the lips.



A small dot of Alizarin Crimson oil is added to each corner of the eyes.



A fine tipped brush (6/0 Raphael) is used to pull some of the color into the eyeball to simulate a bloodshot look.



The head as it stands now the hair is up next on this part, but I am taking a brief break to work on the torso. More on that tomorrow...

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Last edited by Mark Yungblut; 09-09-2013 at 09:01 PM.
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